Post by robby anderson on Mar 16, 2005 16:30:13 GMT -5
(it may say something like "CLICK HERE" the links dont work so just dont click them)
these are mods are for tippmanns only!!!(some are only for model/custom 98)if u want to no if a mod would work for ur gun just post it here.ASK BEFORE DOING THESE MODS SO U DONT MESS UP!!!!!!
trigger mods-
eliminate trigger stop
This works well with all triggers. It helps the Toxic Performance trigger the most, since that seems to be the sloppiest of all the 98 triggers.
If you can't find one at a local hardware store. Head over to MSC Direct and enter this part # ( 81172306 ) in the search box. It will bring you to a bit you can order and use.
I would recommend using a Dremel with the cutting disk to cut the bit, then a file to take the burrs off. A hacksaw will work also.
To get rid of a lot of that annoying side to side movement in the trigger, try this out.
Get a #30 drill bit (DIA .1285") that you can ruin. Cut the shank (smooth part) of the bit the exact length as the trigger pin. The shank of a drill bit is highlighted by the red arrow.
The stock trigger pin is .125" DIA, and we are going to replace it with the .1285" pin you just made. This new pin is going to replace the pin the trigger pivots on, as shown by the picture.
That's it! This will make the pull on the E-Bolt (also mechanical setups) slightly shorter, and in general much smoother, and less sloppy!
trigger stop for single triggers
Remove all the guts from the Marker and bolt the bodies back together. Run a 1/4-20 tap up the RT hole behind the trigger. Get a 1/4-20 nylon bolt, cut it and trim it up about 1/2 inch in length and install it in the newly tapped hole. Use the pictures below as a guide.
The right side of the marker shows the screw in place.
The left side of the marker shows the tapped threads.
Final Product, obviously you will need to adjust it with a little guess and check by moving the screw in or out. It will remove any trigger slop after the trigger is engaged.
trigger stop for double triggers
You will need a stock single trigger guard you can cut up for this. You can use an x-acto knife, snips, or even a dremel to make the first cut. Then you can either file it, or sand it with a dremel tool down to the second line.
Now you will want to drill and tap it for a set-screw. I recommend going to the hardware store, getting a 5/16" drill bit, 4-40 tap and a 4-40 set screw. Make note it can be done with other sizes. The one pictured below uses a 4-40 stainless steel set screw.
Picture of one mounted on gun.
Picture of one using a regular screw.
Example of a set screw used with the Psycho Ballistics / Dead On Paintball double trigger guard.
magnetic trigger mod
would only recommend this mod if you have an electronic gun (E-Bolt, BS kit...) since it is practically pointless on a mechanical or RT trigger. The pressure of the hammer on the sear and sear push on the trigger re-setting it. And on a RT, the RT resets the trigger. With an electronic gun sometimes the switch is strong enough to reset the trigger, but it may be too light for some people. You can use a pen spring, but almost everyone agree's the feeling of a magnetic trigger is better. You can get magnets from MSC Direct. Type in this number (71551709) in the search box and it will bring you to the page. If you have a metal trigger, I would recommend getting a square file, and using the small side (about a 1/4" width) and just filing the trigger down as shown in the picture below (NOTE: The trigger is on a mechanical gun, don't ask...)
If you have a plastic trigger, I would recommend using an X-acto knife for clean cuts, just make sure your comfortable cutting through plastic with one. You can also use a file like on the metal triggers.
Once you have the trigger ready, use some good epoxy that can bond to metal and plastic, glue a magnet to the trigger, and to the powertube. Make sure they are attracting towards each other and line up when you glue them so everything works.
Also if you want a lighter pull, you can use a piece of metal in replace of the bottom magnet. Or even better yet you can drill/tap the trigger and replace the bottom magnet with a set-screw (pictured below).
tuning the machanical trigger
Some people want their mechanical triggers to have a lighter, shorter pull for higher rates of fire. Some simple trigger modifications can help your ROF. Another thing to mention if for some reason you shoot a case in one day, your fingers may not hurt as much.
First you will want to replace the pin the trigger pivots on to remove some overall slack and side-to-side wobble. Heres how-First method is to use a Dremel rotary tool. You'll need: A Dremel tool
Polishing wheel for your Dremel
Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish (or other brand)
This is by far the easiest way to polish, as electricity does all the work
Use a polishing wheel and apply aluminum polish (Mothers Mag brand is best). Turn on your Dremel and polish the areas shaded by the picture.
When your polishing wheel gets dirty or loses all its polish, apply more. Keep going until the metal becomes a shiny silver color. It should start to look like this.
Wash and dry the gun again to get rid of the polish residue and dust.
The next method of polishing requires more effort. Use these if you do not have access to a Dremel.
You will need this: Steel wool
Depending on what you're stamina and how strong you are this could take a while. Don't stop until the metal looks like the picture farther up this page. Polish only the blue shaded areas in the picture above.
Assemble the gun as normal, REMEMBER TO RE-LUBRICATE THE GUN, and enjoy a smoother operating M98/M98c!-
back to tuning the trigger-
Next take out the trigger return spring (recommend), or replace it with a clicky pen spring. This will help make your trigger pull lighter. You do not have to worry about the trigger not re-setting because when the hammer pushes on the sear, the sear pushes on the back of the trigger re-setting it.
Polishing the inside of the gun where the trigger is comes next. Doing this will let your trigger pull be smoother and collect less gunk mechanisms. So polish the internals around the trigger area (if not already done). Click here for instructions.
If you think your trigger pull is too long you can make a trigger stop. Click here if you have a double trigger. Click here if you have a single trigger.
I do not recommend a pre pull trigger stop for mechanical triggers. I also do not recommend putting tape around the pin the sear rests on because this can lead to mis-firing and mis-cocking problems. It is best to leave a little slack here to you can assure the trigger will always let the sear slide over the tab on the trigger, and that the sear will always catch the bolt. Same goes for the sear spring, the stock one is perfect, leave it. If it is too weak it will not return the sear quick enough and your gun will mis-fire.
If your setup permits, use a green Maddmann drive spring. Since it is lighter, the hammer will have less force against the sear, making it easier to trip the sear. Making the sear easier to trip in turn also makes your trigger pull lighter. If your gun has no regulator and you always have to crank in your velocity screw you should put the green Maddmann spring in any ways. If you have an RVA if you can back out your RVA and still retain a good velocity this will help also. If you have the LP kit the drive spring is already lighter so you will be fine.
This works on both single and double triggers. If you use a double trigger you may even be able to walk your mechanical Tippmann Model 98 Custom. Now remember to walk it you should first know what it means, try it out on an electronic gun to know how to do it and get your rhythm. Then practice ALOT on your mechnanical gun to get your finger strength and coordination.
I also do not recommend going thru the process of making a magnetic trigger for mechanical triggers. You will not get any of the benefits you would normally see with an electronic trigger.
ill have more trigger mods tomorow i couldnt fit all of them in this so check back tomorw for more trigger mods.and next week ill put up milling mods so be sure to check back for those!
these are mods are for tippmanns only!!!(some are only for model/custom 98)if u want to no if a mod would work for ur gun just post it here.ASK BEFORE DOING THESE MODS SO U DONT MESS UP!!!!!!
trigger mods-
eliminate trigger stop
This works well with all triggers. It helps the Toxic Performance trigger the most, since that seems to be the sloppiest of all the 98 triggers.
If you can't find one at a local hardware store. Head over to MSC Direct and enter this part # ( 81172306 ) in the search box. It will bring you to a bit you can order and use.
I would recommend using a Dremel with the cutting disk to cut the bit, then a file to take the burrs off. A hacksaw will work also.
To get rid of a lot of that annoying side to side movement in the trigger, try this out.
Get a #30 drill bit (DIA .1285") that you can ruin. Cut the shank (smooth part) of the bit the exact length as the trigger pin. The shank of a drill bit is highlighted by the red arrow.
The stock trigger pin is .125" DIA, and we are going to replace it with the .1285" pin you just made. This new pin is going to replace the pin the trigger pivots on, as shown by the picture.
That's it! This will make the pull on the E-Bolt (also mechanical setups) slightly shorter, and in general much smoother, and less sloppy!
trigger stop for single triggers
Remove all the guts from the Marker and bolt the bodies back together. Run a 1/4-20 tap up the RT hole behind the trigger. Get a 1/4-20 nylon bolt, cut it and trim it up about 1/2 inch in length and install it in the newly tapped hole. Use the pictures below as a guide.
The right side of the marker shows the screw in place.
The left side of the marker shows the tapped threads.
Final Product, obviously you will need to adjust it with a little guess and check by moving the screw in or out. It will remove any trigger slop after the trigger is engaged.
trigger stop for double triggers
You will need a stock single trigger guard you can cut up for this. You can use an x-acto knife, snips, or even a dremel to make the first cut. Then you can either file it, or sand it with a dremel tool down to the second line.
Now you will want to drill and tap it for a set-screw. I recommend going to the hardware store, getting a 5/16" drill bit, 4-40 tap and a 4-40 set screw. Make note it can be done with other sizes. The one pictured below uses a 4-40 stainless steel set screw.
Picture of one mounted on gun.
Picture of one using a regular screw.
Example of a set screw used with the Psycho Ballistics / Dead On Paintball double trigger guard.
magnetic trigger mod
would only recommend this mod if you have an electronic gun (E-Bolt, BS kit...) since it is practically pointless on a mechanical or RT trigger. The pressure of the hammer on the sear and sear push on the trigger re-setting it. And on a RT, the RT resets the trigger. With an electronic gun sometimes the switch is strong enough to reset the trigger, but it may be too light for some people. You can use a pen spring, but almost everyone agree's the feeling of a magnetic trigger is better. You can get magnets from MSC Direct. Type in this number (71551709) in the search box and it will bring you to the page. If you have a metal trigger, I would recommend getting a square file, and using the small side (about a 1/4" width) and just filing the trigger down as shown in the picture below (NOTE: The trigger is on a mechanical gun, don't ask...)
If you have a plastic trigger, I would recommend using an X-acto knife for clean cuts, just make sure your comfortable cutting through plastic with one. You can also use a file like on the metal triggers.
Once you have the trigger ready, use some good epoxy that can bond to metal and plastic, glue a magnet to the trigger, and to the powertube. Make sure they are attracting towards each other and line up when you glue them so everything works.
Also if you want a lighter pull, you can use a piece of metal in replace of the bottom magnet. Or even better yet you can drill/tap the trigger and replace the bottom magnet with a set-screw (pictured below).
tuning the machanical trigger
Some people want their mechanical triggers to have a lighter, shorter pull for higher rates of fire. Some simple trigger modifications can help your ROF. Another thing to mention if for some reason you shoot a case in one day, your fingers may not hurt as much.
First you will want to replace the pin the trigger pivots on to remove some overall slack and side-to-side wobble. Heres how-First method is to use a Dremel rotary tool. You'll need: A Dremel tool
Polishing wheel for your Dremel
Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish (or other brand)
This is by far the easiest way to polish, as electricity does all the work
Use a polishing wheel and apply aluminum polish (Mothers Mag brand is best). Turn on your Dremel and polish the areas shaded by the picture.
When your polishing wheel gets dirty or loses all its polish, apply more. Keep going until the metal becomes a shiny silver color. It should start to look like this.
Wash and dry the gun again to get rid of the polish residue and dust.
The next method of polishing requires more effort. Use these if you do not have access to a Dremel.
You will need this: Steel wool
Depending on what you're stamina and how strong you are this could take a while. Don't stop until the metal looks like the picture farther up this page. Polish only the blue shaded areas in the picture above.
Assemble the gun as normal, REMEMBER TO RE-LUBRICATE THE GUN, and enjoy a smoother operating M98/M98c!-
back to tuning the trigger-
Next take out the trigger return spring (recommend), or replace it with a clicky pen spring. This will help make your trigger pull lighter. You do not have to worry about the trigger not re-setting because when the hammer pushes on the sear, the sear pushes on the back of the trigger re-setting it.
Polishing the inside of the gun where the trigger is comes next. Doing this will let your trigger pull be smoother and collect less gunk mechanisms. So polish the internals around the trigger area (if not already done). Click here for instructions.
If you think your trigger pull is too long you can make a trigger stop. Click here if you have a double trigger. Click here if you have a single trigger.
I do not recommend a pre pull trigger stop for mechanical triggers. I also do not recommend putting tape around the pin the sear rests on because this can lead to mis-firing and mis-cocking problems. It is best to leave a little slack here to you can assure the trigger will always let the sear slide over the tab on the trigger, and that the sear will always catch the bolt. Same goes for the sear spring, the stock one is perfect, leave it. If it is too weak it will not return the sear quick enough and your gun will mis-fire.
If your setup permits, use a green Maddmann drive spring. Since it is lighter, the hammer will have less force against the sear, making it easier to trip the sear. Making the sear easier to trip in turn also makes your trigger pull lighter. If your gun has no regulator and you always have to crank in your velocity screw you should put the green Maddmann spring in any ways. If you have an RVA if you can back out your RVA and still retain a good velocity this will help also. If you have the LP kit the drive spring is already lighter so you will be fine.
This works on both single and double triggers. If you use a double trigger you may even be able to walk your mechanical Tippmann Model 98 Custom. Now remember to walk it you should first know what it means, try it out on an electronic gun to know how to do it and get your rhythm. Then practice ALOT on your mechnanical gun to get your finger strength and coordination.
I also do not recommend going thru the process of making a magnetic trigger for mechanical triggers. You will not get any of the benefits you would normally see with an electronic trigger.
ill have more trigger mods tomorow i couldnt fit all of them in this so check back tomorw for more trigger mods.and next week ill put up milling mods so be sure to check back for those!