Post by robby anderson on Mar 17, 2005 16:46:42 GMT -5
same rules for these as trigger mods part 1
links dont work!!!!
tuning the response trigger(RT)
First lets make sure your RT is in proper working condition. Gas up your gun. Turn the RT adjustment all the way counter-clockwise until it stops. Fire your gun one or two times. This should make your trigger VERY hard to pull, this insures you that your RT is working correctly with no leaks. Now turn the adjustment screw clockwise until the trigger is easy to pull. You can leave it here for high rates of fire, or turn it further clockwise for a lower rate of fire.
Now that we know your RT is in working condition lets set it up for maximum performance. Since the RT is such a brut method to fire a gun, not much fine tuning has to be done. Since the RT will be doing all the work of re-setting the trigger, remove the trigger return spring. Now check to make sure you have the stronger sear spring that comes with the RT kit. Your gun will still work with the standard spear spring, but if you have your gun running in the 16+ BPS range, your gun may misfire and not cock without the stiffer RT sear spring. You can identify the stronger spring by the bigger diameter of the coils.
Now just use the ROF adjuster on the outside of the gun to pick how fast you want your sweetspot to be. Remember you can control how fast you fire by how you work the trigger too. It's like driving a race car, it takes some practice, but eventually you will have total control!
the super response trigger
This can be risky. Mis-fires, chops and shootdown may occur. However if you are willing to try, give this a shot.
Your gun must be high pressure, if you don't understand why I'm sorry, no time to explain.
Call up Tippmann and ask them for the LP hose and fittings for the RT. Replace the stock hose and fittings with these.
Replace the larger diameter RT sear spring with the stock smaller diameter sear spring.
Vertical feed and a HALO B w/Z-code is your friend. Remember that. You can get your gun set up with a vertical feed from KP Customs or Rufus Dawg.
Single trigger, it is easier to control the RT with one finger rather than two. If you only have a double trigger use the top groove and only one finger.
Set your gun up like that and it should rip. Some guns work better than others. Some may not work at all.
tuning the electronic trigger(e-bolt)
This will make your electronic trigger very sweet. Nothing super crazy like on most electro's. But it is very walkable, very controllable, and I've never gotten a complaint about my trigger.
First you will want to replace the pin the trigger pivots on to remove some overall slack and side-to-side wobble. Click here for instructions.
Polishing the inside of the gun where the trigger is comes next. Doing this will let your trigger pull be smoother. This is important since the forces returning the trigger are less than on a mechanical gun. Every small amount of friction is bad so polish the internals around the trigger area (if not already done). Click here for instructions.
If you have the GTA E-Bolt you can adjust where the trigger activates the switch to your liking. I like mine to activate further in the Red direction (way the Red arrow is pointing), while some like theirs in the Yellow direction, or anywhere in-between. You can adjust this by loosening up the small screw that holds the trigger switch to the small metal plate, and rotating the switch in the Red or Yellow direction.
If you have the BSI kit, your trigger activation is set in one spot, unless you make modifications to the tab on the trigger.
Now you will most likely want to shorten your trigger pull. Depending on how you like your trigger pull/activation to be, you can decide on what is right for you.
If you think your trigger post-activation-pull is too long you can make a trigger stop. Click here if you have a double trigger. Click here if you have a single trigger.
If you think your trigger pre-activation-pull is too long, you can put a set screw into your trigger. I recommend 4-40 size set screws. You can find these at your local hardware store, including the correct drill bit and tap needed.
Here are a few different arrangements.
First picture shows the magnetic trigger with both magnets, and an externally access able setscrew in the front of the trigger, where the old trigger return spring was.
Second picture shows the magnetic trigger with one magnet on the powertube, and where the magnet on the trigger was is now a set screw. The set screw is externally adjustable through the bottom of the trigger.
This last picture shows a trigger with the set screw and instead of magnets, a trigger return spring of your choice.
Lastly we need a method to return the trigger since the micro switch isn't strong enough (for most people). You already saw a few pictures and examples of magnetic triggers. You can get more details if you click here. You may also want to use a trigger return spring (Pictured above). Such as a pen spring, or the stock spring.
That should about do it.
links dont work!!!!
tuning the response trigger(RT)
First lets make sure your RT is in proper working condition. Gas up your gun. Turn the RT adjustment all the way counter-clockwise until it stops. Fire your gun one or two times. This should make your trigger VERY hard to pull, this insures you that your RT is working correctly with no leaks. Now turn the adjustment screw clockwise until the trigger is easy to pull. You can leave it here for high rates of fire, or turn it further clockwise for a lower rate of fire.
Now that we know your RT is in working condition lets set it up for maximum performance. Since the RT is such a brut method to fire a gun, not much fine tuning has to be done. Since the RT will be doing all the work of re-setting the trigger, remove the trigger return spring. Now check to make sure you have the stronger sear spring that comes with the RT kit. Your gun will still work with the standard spear spring, but if you have your gun running in the 16+ BPS range, your gun may misfire and not cock without the stiffer RT sear spring. You can identify the stronger spring by the bigger diameter of the coils.
Now just use the ROF adjuster on the outside of the gun to pick how fast you want your sweetspot to be. Remember you can control how fast you fire by how you work the trigger too. It's like driving a race car, it takes some practice, but eventually you will have total control!
the super response trigger
This can be risky. Mis-fires, chops and shootdown may occur. However if you are willing to try, give this a shot.
Your gun must be high pressure, if you don't understand why I'm sorry, no time to explain.
Call up Tippmann and ask them for the LP hose and fittings for the RT. Replace the stock hose and fittings with these.
Replace the larger diameter RT sear spring with the stock smaller diameter sear spring.
Vertical feed and a HALO B w/Z-code is your friend. Remember that. You can get your gun set up with a vertical feed from KP Customs or Rufus Dawg.
Single trigger, it is easier to control the RT with one finger rather than two. If you only have a double trigger use the top groove and only one finger.
Set your gun up like that and it should rip. Some guns work better than others. Some may not work at all.
tuning the electronic trigger(e-bolt)
This will make your electronic trigger very sweet. Nothing super crazy like on most electro's. But it is very walkable, very controllable, and I've never gotten a complaint about my trigger.
First you will want to replace the pin the trigger pivots on to remove some overall slack and side-to-side wobble. Click here for instructions.
Polishing the inside of the gun where the trigger is comes next. Doing this will let your trigger pull be smoother. This is important since the forces returning the trigger are less than on a mechanical gun. Every small amount of friction is bad so polish the internals around the trigger area (if not already done). Click here for instructions.
If you have the GTA E-Bolt you can adjust where the trigger activates the switch to your liking. I like mine to activate further in the Red direction (way the Red arrow is pointing), while some like theirs in the Yellow direction, or anywhere in-between. You can adjust this by loosening up the small screw that holds the trigger switch to the small metal plate, and rotating the switch in the Red or Yellow direction.
If you have the BSI kit, your trigger activation is set in one spot, unless you make modifications to the tab on the trigger.
Now you will most likely want to shorten your trigger pull. Depending on how you like your trigger pull/activation to be, you can decide on what is right for you.
If you think your trigger post-activation-pull is too long you can make a trigger stop. Click here if you have a double trigger. Click here if you have a single trigger.
If you think your trigger pre-activation-pull is too long, you can put a set screw into your trigger. I recommend 4-40 size set screws. You can find these at your local hardware store, including the correct drill bit and tap needed.
Here are a few different arrangements.
First picture shows the magnetic trigger with both magnets, and an externally access able setscrew in the front of the trigger, where the old trigger return spring was.
Second picture shows the magnetic trigger with one magnet on the powertube, and where the magnet on the trigger was is now a set screw. The set screw is externally adjustable through the bottom of the trigger.
This last picture shows a trigger with the set screw and instead of magnets, a trigger return spring of your choice.
Lastly we need a method to return the trigger since the micro switch isn't strong enough (for most people). You already saw a few pictures and examples of magnetic triggers. You can get more details if you click here. You may also want to use a trigger return spring (Pictured above). Such as a pen spring, or the stock spring.
That should about do it.
